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The Starter

After decades in Northern California, I’ve been trained to read spring in a certain way: As soon as the tree petals confetti the sidewalks, I know the markets will start to overflow with artichokes and fava beans, and menus will fill with strawberries, green garlic, and apricots. That’s the season. That’s what I’m supposed to get excited about.

But spring as the kickoff to anchovy season? I’m embarrassed to say, I had no idea.

The silvery local fish are just about to arrive — and they’ll be here through November. The abundant, relatively unrestricted schools of anchovy that swim in our bay are a shimmering, swirling glimmer of hope …

— Sara Deseran (@saradeseran_food)

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Reads of the Week

4 most anticipated SF restaurants opening in April A takeout sushi restaurant launches in SoMa, and two one-of-a-kind pop-ups join forces in the Mission.

A ‘gold rush’ moment for indie coffee brings an Alameda roaster to Fisherman’s WharfSignal Coffee will open its first San Francisco cafe just off Columbus Avenue.

Where to eat and drink on the newly reopened Highway 1Blocked for three years, Big Sur is fully accessible. Here’s how to make your way down California’s most spectacular coastline.

The ‘Pop-Up Magazine’ guys are back with a show devoted to the magic of cookbooksChas Edwards and Derek Fagerstrom are helping produce Cookbook Week’s “Headnotes Live,” bringing some of the most celebrated food writers to tell their stories.

The couple turning a former Chinese restaurant into a mini Ferry Building marketFueled by pasta, wine, and chocolate cake, Agrodolce Provisions is a husband-and-wife team’s effort to breathe life into central SoMa.

Sara’s Picks

I’m not religious, but I am definitely devoted to the hot cross buns at Noe Valley Bakery. The not-too-sweet Easter treat is dotted with currants, crushed almonds, and candied orange peel and spiked with a little nutmeg and cinnamon — topped, of course, by pastry cream piped in a holy cross.

I got my first taste of Nigerian food the other day at new-ish Oakland spot 9JaGrills. Egusi may be my new favorite thing: Thick and rich, the spicy stew is made with ground melon seeds and spinach. I had it topped with big chunks of crispy fried fish and a comforting side of poundo fufu (which you use like a utensil for scooping).

It’s National Poetry Month, and to celebrate, Pizzeria Delfina’s Mission location will be partnering with its neighbor 826 Valencia. If you order a pizza in April, it will come with a little poem written by a student in the 826 writing program. More of these kinds of sweet community collabs, please.

Lauren’s Picks

Sadly, peak Dungeness season is winding down, so I’m ordering every crab dish I come across while I can. Last week that meant the very good Dungeness noodles at Abaca: a tight tangle of slippery, mung-bean vermicelli in a rich crab-fat sauce.

Breakfast this week has been two lightly toasted slices of Portside Bakery’s deliciously buttery, incredibly flaky croissant loaf, which has single-handedly revived my affection for non-crescent-shaped croissants. I picked up a loaf for $15 Sunday at the Marin farmers market.

Speaking of anchovies: Veso’s anchovy vermouth is back in stock. I’ve got a bottle of the miso sweet vermouth in my fridge, and it’s great if you want to make a super savory cocktail. Can’t wait to try this iteration, made in collaboration with another of my pantry staples, Fishwife.

This week’s don't-miss pop-ups

April 2

Tacos Sincero at Rampant Bottle & Bar

Head to Richmond wine bar Rampant for Chino-Latino tostadas paired with flights from EPC Champagne. The event runs from 4 to 8 p.m.

April 4

Satur-bake at Octavia

Chefs Melissa Perello and Melissa Loar will be selling Easter pastries from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. or until sold out. The menu includes black sesame and white chocolate morning buns, ricotta and English pea galettes, carrot cake, hot cross buns, and much more. Preorders of boxes of preassorted pastries are available for pickup.

April 4

Bernal Bakery at Ferry Plaza farmers market

Catch Bernal Bakery popping up at the city’s biggest Saturday farmers market, selling the Italian Easter cake Colomba pasquale. Made with imported Italian grains and diced lemon and orange, it’s formed into the shape of a dove.

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